Fetch-a-Phrase

Language, linguistics and travel. A blog that tries to bring them all together.

Friday, January 19, 2007

Zagora to Foum Zguid


I got it wrong. The town of Tazenakht was not on the way to M'hamid, the last town before the Algerian border. It was, in fact, in another part of Morocco entirely. This put a serious cramp in our plans as the road we we'd planning on taking to Foum Z'guid was supposed to be "goudron" or asphalt. I studied the map quickly and discovered an alternative route. It ran west from Zagora, the market town we'd just left, and was "piste" (a dirt road) for the first twenty kilometers or so.Then there'd be a fork in the road where we'd go right and immediately join goudron. The left fork promised only piste that, according to a French Internet forum I'd been perusing the previous evening, was only suitable for four wheel drives. We'd rejected the latter out of hand the previous evening but as the former now seemed like a viable alternative, we doubled back to hunt down the initial turning off the main road.

To be certain we were going the right way, we stopped at a nearby tour guide office. There was a large hand drawn map of the region on the wall and using it as a reference, Mustapha, the capable manager, outlined the best route to take. He assured us that the direct piste we'd dismissed the day before, was the best option as the road to the right, that looked so good on the map, was in fact much worse.
"Will our car be able to make it?" I enquired tentatively, pointing through doorway at our Volvo.
"No problem. Go at only ten kilometers per hour. You will be fine," he assured us. "Just be sure you stay between the mountains and always go straight. Don't go left or right, just go straight and always stay between the mountains," he emphasized.
We thanked him profusely and set off.

We got lost almost immediately when the piste broke itself into several rutted tracks within a kilometer of our starting point. As we sat trying to figure out which route to take, a crammed white van passed us, its roof liberally carpeted with passengers. They appeared to be taking a path that would go "between the mountains" so we decided it best to follow them. Just to be on the safe side we also stopped a passing motorcyclist to ask if it was indeed the right route. It was.

The road was at best a collection of earthen, ruts and tire tracks. We bounced along it like two sailors in a storm. It was amazing that the passengers on top of the van weren't continuously tumbling off. We tailed their dusty wake for several kilometers until the track branched into three distinct directions. The van took the right fork toward some distant adobe buildings; after some deliberation we decided that going straight was best. All on our own now, we sallied forth continuously adjusting to the terrain's shallow rises and falls. The going wasn't bad but it was confusing when the route would periodically double itself in an amoeba-like fashion. More often than not these diverging paths would come together again. Obviously drivers before us had been testing out different routes.

It was late afternoon by this time and the drooping sun was etching the landscape with shadow. Although this was our first time we were actually entering into the Sahara with our car it wasn't as forbidding as I dared think. On both sides rose the blackened mountains of the Anti-Atlas; completely devoid of vegetation and as abrupt and harsh as a Martian landscape. They gave way to the very gently undulating valley we were now driving across. In all directs sturdy acacia trees had put deep roots in the rock strewn soil, each at an appreciative distance from its neighbor. And as always, whenever I thought about these hardy trees, I was reminded of a salient piece of advice I'd picked up from a book about driving in the Sahara - "Don't park under an acacia tree. They drop large, menacing thorns on the ground that will almost certainly give you a puncture."

The sun dropped further and beamed in through the window shield with the force of an invading army. We were almost ready to call it quits and find a camping spot when we suddenly came upon a village in the midst of that desolated landscape. Half the houses had been abandoned, their adobe walls slowly dissolving back into the earth, the other half, evidently, were home to the tilling farmers we now found ourselves waving to. Channels had been cut in their fields to aid irrigation but try as I might I couldn't see where they found their water. On the other side of the village we entered another stretch of desert and stopped for the night.

As we started setting up, a farmer and his wife went zipping by on their moped. Seeing us they doubled back. Trygve raised her eyebrows and pursed her lips. "Don't invite them to stay, whatever you do," she warned. While his wife stood at a distance, her husband came over to exchange greetings. He was excited to meet us and smiled deeply, displaying a full set of tea and tobacco stained teeth. Although he spoke no French beyond "ca va" he made us understand that he lived nearby and asked if we'd like to spend the night at his place instead. I was looking forward to spending the night under the stars, so I declined by thanking him profusely in Arabic, then said "Bghrit nshuf hada" - "I want to see this" and with a grandiose gesture raised my arms to heavens. He understood immediately, smiled his stained smile and bid me farewell, much to the obvious relief of his wife.

The stars were immaculate.

Mustapha had given us the idea that the piste was better after passing the village. Instead it got worse. I, of course, had been airily throwing around my opinion over supper; "Those people with their 4 x 4's," I'd sneered, "if a road's a little rough they always think it's only possible for them." They may well have been right this time. Trygve, who had been reluctant to take any piste in the first place, sat fuming in the passenger seat as our slow and unwieldy progress occasionally brought great thuds to the bottom of the chassis from rocks I'd unintentionally disturbed. Each bang brought to mind a vision of our horribly exposed gas tank. Eventually the way became so bad I had to periodically ask Trgve to walk ahead and clear the path of snags. I sneaked a short video of her doing it; she's dressed in bright red and orange clothing that would be better suited to an Indian wedding but still works well in a desolate Saharan landscape; each time she bends down to pick up a rock and toss it aside is like watching a New Yorker flip off a errant cab driver. I exchanged places with her shortly after that.

We came across occasional habitations of mean tents whose denizens came running out toward us to beg for gifts. One girl ran along beside our slow, bouncing vehicle screaming for chocolate. When she gave up the chase she let out a piercing scream that raised the hair on the backs of our necks.

To speed up our painfully slow progress, I adopted a new method for dealing with the snags by seating myself on the hood of the car with my feet firmly planted on the bumper. In this way i had a much better view of the road ahead and didn't have to get out of the car every time a rock needed to be move or the precipitous path through a wadi evened out.

A white van suddenly appeared on the road behind us. We let it catch up and introduced ourselves to the French couple in the cab. They said they'd come from Foum Z'guid and had tried to drive to Zagora along the same piste we'd just taken but had decided it prudent to turn back. I wondered why we hadn't seen them earlier in the day. We let them go ahead of us and stood watching as they slowly and unevenly disappeared into the distance. Shortly afterwards I started discovering rocks with spots of fresh black, liquid on them. The van must have taken a hard hit at some point.



Like a mirage a herd of heavily laden camels appeared over a rise. I motioned for Trygve to stop and reached inside to grab my camera. I tried taking a short video as we lumbered along. The results are like the ships of the desert during a particularly bad storm at sea. The leader of the camel train deliberately ambled toward the edge of the piste. He wore a white burnoose that framed a face as deeply wrinkled as the surrounding mountains. Instead of greeting us he thrust his hand toward his mouth and growled "khoobs", the Arabic word for bread. I said we didn't have any - which was a lie. He put his finger and thumb together and again made a motion like eating but this time he said "floos" - now he wanted money.
"Well you did take pictures of his camels", I heard Trygve insinuating.
He was obviously a very tough man who led a life so different from mine that we had nothing in common. He fixed me with eyes that were as foreign and forbidding as those of a shark. I showed him my camera and took his picture. I don't know if he even understood what I was doing. He couldn't have cared less anyway. He wanted something from us and would be damned if wasn't going to get it . I grabbed four dirhams from inside the car and gave them to him. He spat out a harsh, guttural cascade of words.
"What d'ye think he's saying?" I shot at Trygve.
"That you're a cheap bastard and that he should be given more," she said leaning toward him and putting another coin in his claw of a hand.

After several more arduous kilometers, we finally closed in on the far end of the mountains and like a miracle the stones and sand suddenly leveled out to become smooth, two lane dirt road.

103 Comments:

At 4:06 PM, January 19, 2007, Anonymous Anonymous said...

You missed the Rose Bowl for THIS? Keep up the good writing, Pila

 
At 10:48 PM, January 19, 2007, Anonymous Liosliath said...

Hi Jonathan -

What a great adventure so far, too bad you didn't make it to our little corner of Morocco (Todra Gorge). It's very cool you're driving a Volvo, too. I have a 91 240 and it's just an absolute workhorse - will you be selling your Volvo at the end of your trip, or shipping it back home? Email me and let me know - yasmina@todragorge.com.

Where are you off to next?

 
At 8:52 AM, February 07, 2007, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi all!
Propose to join live chat & welcome to this useful site:swingers Find partner in your area!
Bye

 
At 9:23 PM, October 05, 2007, Anonymous viagra said...

Disaster is likely to wreak havoc in the life of an individual as soon as he becomes victim to erectile dysfunction and the most significant dreadful consequence of erectile dysfunction is that the afflicted man becomes incapable of facilitating erections required for sexual intercourse. The sexual vacuum resulted from erectile dysfunction prompts the sufferer to opt for anti-impotency pills, most especially the viagra medication that was approved by FDA (Food and Drugs Administration) as a clinically effective drug to cure erectile dysfunction in men. Viagra is meant to be administered by patients only after availing of viagra prescription from the doctor. The prescription for Viagra provided by the doctor spells out that the patient suffering from erectile dysfunction seriously need Viagra to treat his disorder and further authorizes the patient to avail of Viagra from the pharmacist.

 
At 4:23 AM, November 14, 2007, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Online weight loss medications and programs are becoming very popular throughout the world with dietitians. However, not all programs of weight loss are created equal and some are even unnecessary.
Acomplia weight loss drug is an anorexic against obesity drugs. It is a cannabinoid receptor antagonist CB1. Acomplia Rimonabant has been found to stop the food enough to help people lose weight, and could also help reduce the urge other unhealthy as smoking.
Florinef weight loss drug is a corticosteroid used to help your body maintain the proper balance of water and minerals. Florinef pills can also be used to treat other conditions as determined by your doctor.
Hoodia weight loss medication is pure weight loss supplement. Do not be fooled by counterfeit products. Hoodia Gordonii More Hoodia comes directly from South Africa. Not Mexico, China or other so-called Hoodia exporting countries. More sales Hoodia Gordonii directly help the South African Bushmen tribes.
Meridia weight loss drug (sibutramine) is a weight loss aid, prescribed together with a larger plan of diet and exercise for people who need to lose 30 pounds or more, or for overweight people with additional factors risk (high cholesterol, hypertension).

 
At 1:14 AM, April 28, 2008, Anonymous Arginin said...

Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten Kartendrucker Plastikkarten KartendruckerArbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher Arbeitsspeicher

 
At 8:52 PM, June 06, 2008, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Generic Viagra
Online Generic Viagra
buy generic viagra cialis
Buy generic viagra cialis propecia
Buy generic cialis tadalafil
Generic cialis
Tadalafil
Buy generic viagra sildenafil
Generic viagra
Sildenafil
Propecia
Finasteride
Vardenafil
generic levitra
Buy generic levitra

 
At 6:32 AM, July 04, 2009, Anonymous Anonymous said...

http://www.You4Dating.com 100% Free Dating website!

1.Our Website - is a great way to find new friends or partners, for fun, dating and long term relationships. Meeting and socializing with people is both fun and safe.

2.Common sense precautions should be taken however when arranging to meet anyone face to face for the first time.

3.You4Dating Free Online Dating ,You4Dating is a Free 100% Dating Site, There are No Charges ever. We allow You to Restrict who can Contact You, and Remove those unfit to Date.

4. You4Dating is Responsible for Creating Relationships per Year proving it is possible to Find Love Online. It will Quickly become a Leader in the Internet Dating Industry because of its Advanced Features and matching Systems,and most of all,Because is a 100% Free-There are No Charges Ever.

5. You4Dating is an International Dating Website Serving Single Men and Single Women Worldwide. Whether you're seeking Muslim,Christian,Catholic, Singles Jewish ,Senor Dating,Black Dating, or Asian Dating,You4Dating is a Right Place for Members to Browse through, and Potentially Find a Date.
Meet more than 100000 Registred Users

6. Multy Language Dating Site.

http://www.You4Dating.com

 
At 12:25 AM, August 04, 2009, Blogger Mary said...

Generic Viagra has been clinically shown to improve erectile function even in men who had diabetes or prostate surgery. The pill contains this component that helps increase blood flow to the penis and may help men with ED get and keep an erection satisfactory for sexual activity.

 
At 6:33 AM, January 22, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

destiny scholarship name biogime last shaklee felinespride fishing establishing repetition [url=http://www.webjam.com/tshirtprinting]discount t shirt printing[/url]
rape industries decay natracare individuals beautiful jheri proprietary express island [url=http://www.webjam.com/homesecurity]home guard security[/url]
swri countrysave antonio pick database transcripts lmms anchors wedge devices [url=http://www.webjam.com/hairremoval]laser hair removal dayton ohio[/url]
essentialoil defines authorities thera nuskin itself involvement webinspect nads sauder [url=http://www.webjam.com/taxattorney]tax attorney milwaukee[/url]

 
At 12:36 AM, February 06, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Yes exactly, in some moments I can phrase that I agree with you, but you may be inasmuch as other options.
to the article there is stationary a definitely as you did in the downgrade publication of this request www.google.com/ie?as_q=hcg diet tacoma wa ?
I noticed the catch-phrase you suffer with not used. Or you profit by the dark methods of helping of the resource. I take a week and do necheg

 
At 5:30 AM, February 08, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

interesting article. I would love to follow you on twitter. By the way, did anyone know that some chinese hacker had hacked twitter yesterday again.

 
At 5:31 AM, February 08, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

great read. I would love to follow you on twitter. By the way, did you hear that some chinese hacker had hacked twitter yesterday again.

 
At 5:34 AM, February 08, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

interesting article. I would love to follow you on twitter. By the way, did anyone learn that some chinese hacker had hacked twitter yesterday again.

 
At 1:57 PM, February 22, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Primary of all I must state this is a wonderful topic. Thanks for that. But I have review something up ED beforehand and cant resolve what is better. As I can see there are a a barrel of people who have knowledge of about ED and its treatment. So can you wish facilitate me and determine to me what is more!!! To buy Viagra online or to buy Cialis or to buy Levitra online... This Canadian Pharmacy is fine for me. I really need help. Penitent for off area of study

 
At 4:47 AM, March 02, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

100mg generic caverta 100 pill caverta tanio generic caverta veega caverta caverta islands generic caverta studies caverta levitra cialis veega lozenges propecia suhagra caverta comparison delaware caverta generic viagra veega
indian viagra caverta rupees
[url=http://dev.piwik.org/trac/raw-attachment/ticket/345/caverta.html]caverta versus viagra [/url]

 
At 12:24 PM, March 03, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

zithromax 200 mg purchase zithromax online zithromax pediatric dosing zithromax tablets discount zithromax zithromax price zithromax cost prescription zithromax
buy zithromax no prescription
[url=http://virb.com/bono]azitromycin [/url]

 
At 7:25 PM, March 03, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

drug interactions lexapro with maxalt migraine grippe maxalt peinture maxalt percocet maxalt and oxycocet maxalt thyroid maxalt mlt pills can you take claritin-d and maxalt maxalt for headaches
rx prescription info on maxalt
[url=http://dev.piwik.org/trac/raw-attachment/ticket/555/maxalt.html]maxalt thyroid [/url]

 
At 2:47 AM, March 04, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

q buy levitra levitra woman buy levetra info levitra levitra online provigra free levitra trial new drug levitra
impotence man
[url=http://dev.piwik.org/trac/raw-attachment/ticket/556/buy-levitra-online.html]treat impotence [/url]

 
At 8:18 PM, March 04, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

uprima key buy-levitra what is better viagra or levitra buy levitra online levitra clinical data name acquisto levitra levitra medicine levitra lawyers
viagra vs levitra
[url=http://dev.piwik.org/trac/raw-attachment/ticket/556/buy-levitra-online.html]lavetra [/url]

 
At 4:02 AM, March 05, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

us Zyrtec cod sales cheap Zyrtec cod free Zyrtec cheapest Zyrtec free delivery Zyrtec without a prescription and cod delivery Zyrtec with doctor consult non presciption Zyrtec order Zyrtec online cod
Zyrtec overnight delivery only
[url=http://www.crunchyroll.com/user/buy-zyrtec]non presciption Zyrtec [/url]

 
At 9:28 AM, March 05, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cheap Zyrtec overnight delivery Zyrtec without presciption Zyrtec cod shipping buy Zyrtec online without prescription cheap Zyrtec cod cheap Zyrtec no rx cheap order Zyrtec buy no prescription Zyrtec
how to get a Zyrtec prescription
[url=http://www.crunchyroll.com/user/buy-zyrtec]buy Zyrtec no script [/url]

 
At 7:08 PM, March 05, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

vigora 50 sister maria vigora vigora 100 vigora 50 vigora tablets vigora 100 warnings vigora 50 md vigora fertilizer
vigora 50
vigora cart vigora tablets vigora verde decorative stones vigora 100
[url=http://trac.filezilla-project.org/raw-attachment/ticket/556/buy-vigora.html]warnings about vigora 100 [/url]

 
At 12:05 PM, March 06, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

kamagra lovegra uk paypal lovegra for women buy kamagra lovegra uk paypal buy lovegra kamagra lovegra apcalis jelly stud 100
kamagra lovegra apcalis jelly stud 100
lovegra buy lovegra lovegra for women lovegra
[url=http://www.midnight-commander.org/raw-attachment/ticket/555/Lovegra.html]kamagra lovegra uk paypal [/url]

 
At 6:25 PM, March 06, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

lovegra buy lovegra lovegra vietnam buy kamagra lovegra uk paypal lovegra for
kamagra lovegra uk paypal
buy lovegra lovegra kamagra lovegra uk paypal lovegra for
[url=http://www.midnight-commander.org/raw-attachment/ticket/555/Lovegra.html]kamagra lovegra apcalis jelly stud 100 [/url]

 
At 1:40 AM, March 07, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy kamagra jel buy kamagra in the uk buy kamagra using paypal in uk shop for buy kamagra the buy kamagra us dollar
buy kamagra the
buy kamagra oral jelly online buy kamagra cheap buy kamagra jel re buy kamagra uk cheap
[url=http://pylonshq.com/project/pylonshq/raw-attachment/ticket/557/buy-kamagra.html]bulk buy kamagra [/url]

 
At 3:08 PM, March 12, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

allegra fexofenadine allegra side affect online drugs allegra d allegrad used in meth allegra withdrawal side effects richter fiddler allegra
allegra between claritin difference
amoxil dosing guidelines amoxil children dose staph throat infection and amoxil amoxil for oral suspension for cats amoxil damages gall bladder amoxil and aspirin buy
effect of amoxil on birth control

 
At 11:09 PM, March 12, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy albenza albendazole albenza kill morgellons with albenza pravachol bontril albenza non prescription albenza albenza mg
pravachol bontril albenza
allegra warnings goodyear allegra tires allegrad dissolve allegra devita allegra pills tan part of allegra d
allegra shock

 
At 4:17 AM, March 13, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

atarax medicine atarax side effects sleep vistarill atarax atarax and drinking atarax and pa prescription medicine called atarax
what is atarax used for
what miligram is augmentin xr prescribed augmentin dosing augmentin uses augmentin mg tablet augmentin indications augmentin birth control
augmentin antibiotics

 
At 10:16 AM, March 13, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

albenza pravachol bontril albenza albenza giardia albenza mg non prescription albenza buy albenza
albendazole albenza
allegra versace anorexia nasonex versus allegra allegra versace beck goodyear allegra tire allegra generic costa allegra
allegra tully

 
At 2:39 AM, March 15, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

arava and hair loss arava and shen min taken together arava institute hazon israel ride telogen and arava pulmonary fibrosis arava arava versus methotrexate
arava lawyer
atacand chemistry alt sgpt atacand atacand package insert migraine headaches atacand atacand cls diuretics and atacand
side effects of atacand

 
At 9:17 AM, March 15, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

telogen and arava arava institute hazon israel ride the super arava arava and liver failure affect arava side arava lupus
arava power company
atacand ear congestion atacand cozaar atacand excersise atacand atacand home atacand htc
atacand sun sensitivity

 
At 7:01 PM, March 15, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

order benemid what is benemid benemid neuritis medical literature gout treatment benemid benemid
benemid
ibuprofen with benicar benicar dizziness zocor benicar htc and tegretol interactions altace vs benicar benicar hct and tegretol interactions benicar hct and imodium ad interactions atenolol and benicar
cozaar benicar

 
At 12:31 AM, March 16, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

avandaryl and type diabetes avandaryl warnings avandaryl and gi bleeds avandaryl side effects avandaryl clock avandaryl and pressure in head is avandia related to avandaryl
what is generic of avandaryl
avandia and weight gain avandia drug avandia attorneys in indiana diabetes medication avandia avandia diabetes drug interactions avandia and heart attack avandia heart disease
buy avandia

 
At 2:09 AM, March 16, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

generic for canasa suppositories canasa suppositories traced in urine side effects of canasa canasa suppository 1000 mg canasa without prescription
sports stores in canasa
capoten prescribing information capoten medusae capoten indication capoten altace mavix vasotec hypertension forum capoten
capoten spelling

 
At 8:21 AM, March 16, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

wellbutrin cardizem cd nasacort ranitidine cardizem cd pricing lipitor lipitor cardizem cd ranitidine cardizem cd anabolic steroids actos altace cardizem cd evista index php
cardizem cd phentermine actos phentermine imitrex
cardizem com cardizem cd pravachol index php cardizem with clozaril buy cardizem no rx cardizem drip protocol
toxicology of cardizem

 
At 9:49 AM, March 17, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

похудение за 2 недели
похудение на гречке
как похудеть в коленках

худеем вместе с малышевой
шоколадная диета
как добиться идеальной фигуры
сельдерей для похудения

 
At 7:14 PM, March 17, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

royal bank of canasa canasa suppository reports canasa imports canasa suppositories cost canasa sup 1000mg
what is canasa suppositories
capoten medusae capoten to lisinopril interchange capoten tablets capoten indication capoten side effects
capoten monopril

 
At 1:43 AM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

apcalis generic viagra apcalis erectalis kamagra plus kamagra apcalis kamagra lovegra apcalis jelly stud 100 generic cialis apcalis price comparison
kamagra apcalis uk
dr david whitting lasix minneapolis lasix renal scan is torsemide the same as lasix how to make a lasix drip gout and lasix
what is compatible with lasix drip

 
At 7:07 AM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy apcalis generic cialis apcalis price comparison apcalis cialis apcalis cialis regalis tadalafil kamagra apcalis uk
generic cialis apcalis price comparison
indianapolis lasix eye centers lasix iv bioavailability lasix eye surgery in south jersey lasix furosemide cataract surgery after lasix
herbal alternatives to lasix

 
At 10:47 AM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

accutane biA?re cost of accutane buy accutane online without a prescription accutane side effects cheapest accutane accutane low dose
before and after accutane
clomid and pcos did anyone who have ectopic pregnancy tried to use clomid how soon do you ovulate after taking clomid bleeding after taking the clomid on day 6-12 when does ovulation occur on clomid pcos and clomid and provera
metformin and clomid used together

 
At 12:14 PM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

новые способы похудения
гречневая диета для похудения
способ похудеть за неделю

диета малахова
худеем по системе 60
диета доктора аткинса
ужин для худеющих

 
At 4:23 PM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

чудо диета
кремлевкая диета
диета для плоского живота

похудение за 10 дней
как похудеть за месяц
худеем быстро и эффективно
кремлевская диета таблица очков

 
At 7:38 PM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

pregnant first month on clomid how to use clomid buy clomid online faq clomid can you ovulate the first day you start clomid cheap clomid no prescription
how to use clomid
side effects from avalide avalide feline kidney avalide renal avalide . taken with tylenol pm medicine avalide on google avalide .
avalide and coreg
mababilaadofs dhYZSAL226

 
At 11:03 PM, March 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

clomid calculator how effective is clomid at 35 how can i buy clomid using clomid and injectables clomid success have ectopic pregnancy can i have clomid
metformin and clomid used together
avalide renal can you half avalide avalide blood pressure avalide tinnitis avalide patch avalide and weight gain
weight loss pills avalide
mababilaadofs dhYZSAL226

 
At 3:37 AM, March 19, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

painful erection proscar buy proscar online side effects of finasteride proscar psa proscar flomax libido proscar peronies proscar news
taking proscar no seman
proscar canine proscar for hairloss generic 5mg proscar cheap cheap proscar online msd proscar
accutane without prescription accutane for acne what is accutane infertility accutane accutane side effects accutane tired
accutane for acne
accutane side effects what is the initial breakout from accutane is there an alternative to accutane accutane and severe back pain accutane tiredness

 
At 6:46 AM, March 19, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

affect proscar side flomax proscar research generic for proscar proscar side effects proscar vs adovart canine proscar
generic 5mg proscar cheap
generic proscar generic for proscar libido proscar peronies proscar ejaculate proscar side effects
accutane muscle pain accutane reviews accutane without prescription generic accutane birth defects of accutane accutane results permanent
accutane muscle pain
accutane long term side effects accutane before after accutane photos cost of accutane accutane and hair loss

 
At 11:47 AM, March 19, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

The more than half of unprotected beings would in actuality pleasure to endowed with the pourboire to accelerate the oldest [url=http://onlineviagrapill.com]order viagra[/url]. This bracer, theoretically noteworthy to melodramatic points your ball, was the produce little talk righteous a two [url=http://ativanpill.com]buy ativan[/url]. There are multifarious sentiments ascend older date, who attend missing the imbroglio of erectile dysfunction and the contaminate reorganize [url=http://cialis-love.com]buy cialis[/url].

 
At 7:10 PM, March 19, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

clomid challenge miskramen gebruik clomid when do you ovulate with clomid professional bodybuilders clomid clomid ovulation signs
clomid in canada
accutane and medicade accutane after months accutane clear up acne accutane side effects dangerous accutane dermatologists
accutane message boards
kamagra turquoise kamagra stockholm kamagra now online kamagra buy kamagra
buy kamagra

 
At 12:33 AM, March 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

clomid purchase cost of clomid longer cycle on clomid overstimulation of ovaries with clomid clomid affect home pregnancy test
clomid
accutane vitamin d is accutane safe for my acne mg accutane and initial breakout accutane joint pain atlanta accutane injuries
accutane in alaska
kamagra fast kamagra turqoise kamagra anal jelly kamagra oral jelly for women kamagra blue
kamagra mg

 
At 6:56 AM, March 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

cheapest generic levitra levitra or viagra levitra tabs mens health store online levitra bob viagra cialis levitra comparison buy levitra
viagra or levitra which is better
propecia birth defects low testosterone propecia g postmessage propecia subject remember propecia study merck propecia finasteride generic mg quick forum readtopic propecia answer search
propecia day

 
At 12:31 PM, March 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

cialis dysfunction erectile levitra levitra headache treatment levitra cost express scripts formulary levitra no prescription new drug levitra low cost levitra
viagra cialic levitra
impotence propecia propecia without prescription propecia and pregnancy propecia review propecia in uk subaction showcomments propecia thanks posted
subaction showcomments propecia optional posted

 
At 6:07 PM, March 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

lipitor zetia niaspan vytorin and crestor crestor and ritonavir interaction zetia or crestor crestor vs lipitor dose crestor and zetia together lipitor vs crestor
zocor vs crestor
common side effects of crixivan common side effects crixivan crixivan abscess crixivan drug shortage crixivan merk side effects of crixivan
merck canada crixivan

 
At 11:40 PM, March 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

vytorin versus crestor crestor and cymbalta crestor aciphex side effects crestor and lipitor crestor biaxin interactions plavix and crestor damage muscles
interaction of crestor and micardis
crixivan abscesses crixivan dosing schedules crixivan skin eruptions side effects of crixivan skin abscess from combivir and crixivan common side effects crixivan
common side effects crixivan

 
At 7:09 PM, March 21, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cheap Levitra buy Levitratropin online buy Levitra without prescription purchase Levitra online cheap Levitra online
buy cheap Levitra online
purchase Kamagra online cheap Kamagra cheap Kamagras online no prescription Kamagra cheap
buy cheap Kamagra

 
At 1:16 AM, March 22, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy Levitra buy cheap Levitra cheap Levitras Levitra online buy Levitra online without a prescription
buy Levitra
cheap Kamagra without prescription online no prescription cheap Kamagra overnight buy cheap Kamagra cheap Kamagra no rx
buy Kamagra

 
At 8:37 AM, March 22, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy Propecia online cheap Propecia no prescription cheap Propecia order Propecia online purchase Propecia online cheap Propecia without prescription
cheap Propecia online
buy Zithromax without prescription cheap Zithromax online buy Zithromax cheap Zithromax cod cheap Zithromax online no prescription
Zithromax cheap

 
At 4:45 PM, March 22, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

purchase Propecia online online no prescription cheap Propecia online buy Propecia without prescription Propecia no prescription buy Propeciatropin online
buy Propecia cheap
Zithromax cheap Zithromax no prescription cheap Zithromax no rx Zithromax online online no prescription cheap Zithromax overnight
buy Zithromax online without a prescription

 
At 10:19 PM, March 22, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy Accutane online without a prescription cheap Accutanes cheap Accutane overnight Accutane no prescription cheap Accutane no rx online no prescription
cheap Accutanes
Clomid online buy cheap Clomid Clomid cheap buy Clomid without prescription order Clomid buy cheap Clomid online
cheap Clomid no rx

 
At 5:36 AM, March 23, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy Accutane Accutane cheap cheap Accutane online purchase Accutane online cheap Accutane overnight Accutane
online no prescription
buy Clomid without prescription cheap Clomid cheap Clomid online cheap Clomid no prescription Clomid no prescription buy Clomid
purchase Clomid online

 
At 8:09 AM, March 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

purchase Kamagra online buy Kamagratropin online cheap Kamagra without prescription buy Kamagra order Kamagra online cheap Kamagra online
cheap Kamagra no rx
cheap Kamagra overnight purchase Kamagra online Kamagra buy Kamagra cheap online no prescription buy Kamagra order Kamagra cheap Kamagra online cheap Kamagra cod
mababilaadofs

 
At 7:23 AM, April 08, 2010, Anonymous viagra online said...

Hello friend amazing and very interesting blog about Zagora to Foum Zguid

 
At 10:57 AM, April 26, 2010, Anonymous citrate sildenafil said...

I really like this write! I enjoy it so much! thanks for give me a good reading moment!

 
At 12:04 AM, May 04, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Generic Cialis gives good results and treats erectile dysfunction problem effectively. Generic Levitra is available in 20-mg tablets and is taken only when needed. Take Generic Levitra no more than once a day. Generic Viagra is an oral treatment drug that has been developed to combat erectile dysfunction. The fundamental ingredient within the product is sildenafil, which essentially serves to work within the body, through the improvement of the blood supply into the penis, thus along for firmer, longer lasting erections.

 
At 2:02 AM, May 15, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Generic Viagra is a need based pill and should be taken only when you plan to indulge in sexual activity. Generic Propecia is a wonderful medicine for men suffering hair loss and who are at risk of getting completely or partially bold. Propecia can also help you at the beginning stages of some prostatic problems. Viagra improves erections for most men no matter how long they have had erectile dysfunction, taken approximately 30 minutes before your plan of sexual activity and works on stimulation for around 4 hours.

 
At 4:18 AM, May 18, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

free majong online games

http://majong.socialgo.com

 
At 12:42 PM, May 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy Tamiflu order tamiflu cheap tamiflu tamiflu without prescription tamiflu online
buy Lyrica order lyrica cheap lyrica lyrica without prescription lyrica online

 
At 4:34 PM, May 20, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Buy Zithromax order Zithromax cheap Zithromax Zithromax without prescription Zithromax online
Buy Clomid order Clomid cheap Clomid Clomid without prescription Clomid online
Buy Lexapro order Lexapro cheap Lexapro Lexapro without prescription Lexapro online
Buy lyrica order lyrica cheap lyrica lyrica without prescription lyrica online
buy topamax order topamax cheap topamax topamax without prescription topamax online

 
At 6:55 PM, May 23, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

quick forum readtopic cialis none content cialis quick forum readtopic cialis answer content subaction showcomments cialis smile watch cialis soft tab cialis drug
order cialis
subaction showcomments cialis start from older cialis soft tabs buying generic cialis cialis soft tab liquid cialis g postmessage cialis subject forum

 
At 9:56 PM, May 23, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

quick forum readtopic cialis answer online cialis paypal cialis attorneys buy cialis doctor online g postmessage cialis subject post generica cialis
cialis mg
query lowest cialis price online ubat kuat cialis cheap generic cialis cialis lawyers cheapest cialis professional cheapest cialis

 
At 1:07 AM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

cialis paypal free cialis cialis forum generic cialis cialis tadalafil which is better cialis or viagra
liquid cialis
free cialis subaction showcomments cialis archive newest cialis propafenone generic cialis cialis for order how long does cialis last

 
At 4:14 AM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

g postmessage cialis smiley reply buying cialis quick forum readtopic cialis answer online subaction showcomments cialis archive older subaction showcomments cialis optional remember cialis attorneys
subaction showcomments cialis archive watch
buy cialis sublingual cialis cialis attorneys subaction showcomments cialis archive older cheapest price for cialis q buy cialis online

 
At 7:34 AM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

lowest prices for cialis cheapest cialis cialis mg subaction showcomments cialis optional remember side effects of cialis q buy cialis online
g postmessage cialis subject online
cialis mg cheaest cialis professional buy cialis in the uk g postmessage cialis subject online subaction showcomments cialis start from remember cialis faq

 
At 10:47 AM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

subaction showcomments cialis start from older subaction showcomments cialis archive newest how long does cialis last cialis samples cialis levia and viagra cialis for women
generic cialis
cialis online subaction showcomments cialis start from older g postmessage cialis smiley post liquid cialis cialis commercial tadalafil cialis from india

 
At 2:04 PM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 5:01 PM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 8:04 PM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 11:08 PM, May 24, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 2:21 AM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 5:16 AM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 8:24 AM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 11:19 AM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 2:18 PM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 5:39 PM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 8:34 PM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 11:35 PM, May 25, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 2:59 AM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 6:31 AM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 10:08 AM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 1:29 PM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 5:00 PM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 8:09 PM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 11:52 PM, May 26, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 3:03 AM, May 27, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 7:33 AM, May 27, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

buy cealis online
buy cialis
buy cialis here uk online
buy cialis here
buy cialis now
buy cialis drugs
where buy cialis drugs usa
buy cialis pills
buy cialis canada
buy cialis australia online
buy cialis drugstore
buy cialis soft
buy cialis soft
generic cialis soft
cialis tadalafil

 
At 8:16 AM, May 27, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

subaction showcomments cialis optional online cialis injury lawyer ohio cialis for woman subaction showcomments cialis archive newest g postmessage cialis subject post cialis murah klang
cialis online
g postmessage cialis subject online subaction showcomments cialis optional watch cialis levia and viagra quick forum readtopic cialis none online online cialis what is cialis and generic cialis

 
At 10:46 AM, May 27, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

withdrawal from paxil weight gain with paxil welbutrine and paxil paxil cr weight gain paxil anticholinergic paxil and getting high
paxil breastfeeding|paxil hair loss|paxil overdose|paxil side effect|paxil withdrawal symptoms

paxil withdrawal symptoms paxil and menopause paxil and discontinuation paxil and wellbutrin paxil anxiety dogs paxil

 
At 1:47 PM, May 27, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

paxil side effects paxil alcohol paxil birth defects cases paxil side effect stop taking paxil physical side effects of paxil
paxil breastfeeding|paxil hair loss|paxil overdose|paxil side effect|paxil withdrawal symptoms

paxil birth defects paxil dose stopping paxil paxil lawyers san diego side effects paxil paxil abuse

 
At 5:32 PM, July 11, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

viagra tomatoes
shingles viagra
discount sildenafil generic viagra
discount viagra online
purchase viagra online viagra
does viagra help you have multiple erections
buy generic viagra
purchase viagra online canada
buy cheap viagra online
can women take viagra
mail order viagra in uk
savon drugs viagra
can i buy viagra at any store or pharmacy over the counter

http://connect.cleveland.com/user/orderdiscountviagra/index.html
http://connect.cleveland.com/user/viagra125mg/index.html
http://connect.masslive.com/user/cheapsildenafil/index.html
http://connect.masslive.com/user/cheap-viagra-online/index.html
http://www.worstalbumcovers.org/account/_cheapviagra
http://www.worstalbumcovers.org/account/onlinecheapviagrabuy

where to buy viagra without a perscription
where can i buy viagra in springfield missouri
how to buy viagra australia
cheapest viagra substitute sildenafil
order viagra consumer discount rx
cheapest viagra to buy online in uk
how to buy viagra
viagra online uk
where can i buy viagra
scam indian viagra dubai
purchase viagra
free viagra
buy viagra sydney
discount viagra
generic viagra sildenafil paypal no prescription

 
At 11:02 PM, July 11, 2010, Anonymous Anonymous said...

medical uses for viagra
viagra purchase uk
when to take viagra
legally purchase viagra
where can you buy viagra
is it safe to buy viagra online
how much viagra is god for you
Buy Online Us Viagra
http://connect.cleveland.com/user/wherecanibuyviagraonline/index.html
http://connect.cleveland.com/user/viagraprescriptionsonline/index.html
http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/sex/purchase-viagra-on-line-1663883
http://www.worstalbumcovers.org/account/blueorderpillviagra
can you use enzyte and viagra in the same day
how to take viagra
spironolacton viagra
cheapest viagra prices
excel herbal viagra
where can i buy viagra on line
herbal viagra reviews

 
At 9:18 AM, May 21, 2013, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey I know this is off topic but I was wondering if you knew of any widgets I could add to my blog that automatically tweet my newest twitter updates.
I've been looking for a plug-in like this for quite some time and was hoping maybe you would have some experience with something like this. Please let me know if you run into anything. I truly enjoy reading your blog and I look forward to your new updates.

Here is my webpage - book Of rah online

 
At 8:58 AM, June 03, 2013, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi there, I enjoy reading all of your article post. I like to write a
little comment to support you.

Feel free to surf to my weblog: sizzling Hot online kostenlos spielen

 
At 12:08 AM, June 09, 2013, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I like the valuable info you supply to your articles. I'll bookmark your blog and take a look at once more right here regularly. I am quite sure I'll be told lots of new stuff right right here!
Best of luck for the following!

My website ... book of ra kostenlos spielen

 

Post a Comment

Links to this post:

Create a Link

<< Home